Richards (W.R.V.) sent the club an article which was published in
the Midge owners club magazine. It was written by Terry Weatherfield.
relates to certain problems with the Midge chassis. The area of
the chassis concerned is almost identical to the Locust chassis
so John suggests you check yours for possible problems. He thinks
that the problem may only occur (if at all) on the older chassis.
check anyway, better safe than sorry! here is an extract from the
I was preparing the Midge for the show and my holiday the next week.
I took the front wheels off to replace the disc pads and noticed
that some recently applied paint had come off the small diameter
tubes on the chassis which form the pivot point for the upper wishbone
of the front suspension. When I took out the pivot bolts of both
wishbones, three of the four tubes fell off, having broken off at
the weld. The broken ends had chaffed causing the bolts to be loose
and the wishbones flopped about on the bolts which are a clearance
fit in the chassis. The symptoms I had noticed of late were that
the car wandered at speed , it veered to one side during braking
and creaked during braking at parking speeds. I ignored the slight
wandering, put the creaking down to the coil over shocks, but decided
to service the brakes to sort out the veering."
contacted John Richards who made enquiries with the chassis manufacturers
who told him that the latest tubes were made of thicker material
(the originals being only 2mm thick), John arranged for some replacement
tubes to be sent to Terry but as it happens terry turned up some
of his own tubes in the end as the replacement parts were delayed
in the post, Terry continues;
turned up some bosses out of rectangular bar so that I could weld
them in two planes: welded to the chassis tube and to the plate
which forms the spring seat. If the wishbone mounting tubes of your
car have a wall thickness of 2mm then carefully check for cracks
now. If they are o.k. it is my opinion that you can avoid failure
by welding a small triangular plate between the mounting tube and
the chassis tube to resist the bending forces, this may also help
to prevent collapsing the tube when tightening the bolt. However
this is best eliminated by beefing up the tube thickness or by making
blocks as I did."
offers his comments as follows;
problem certainly does not affect any chassis supplied by White
Rose in the last two and a half years and as far as I can ascertain
the Midge suspension tube was changed some 4 - 5 years ago to the
current thick walled version as on the current Locusts. However
early Locust chassis built before that date which might be affected
are those built with upright square tubed suspension towers".
is suggested that owners of mature Locusts chassis follow terry's
advice and check their suspension top tubes (the ones through which
the long Cortina top bolt passes) and if at all suspect, then as
Terry is an experienced engineer, I can do no better than suggest
they follow his advice and have the reinforcing gussets welded to
thanks to John Richards and Terry Weatherfield for passing on this