Having now cover over 2500
miles in AFG 486S, in one year since it passed the SVA Test,
it was now time to modify some of the electrics that had give
first of which was the original fuse box which I have used
from the Escort MK2. This caused and total power failure on
the winkers, instruments lights, stoplights etc. on a run
out one evening.
fuse box is made of plastic, with copper fuse holders. The
problem is caused by corrosion between the holders and connecting
pins riveted through the plastic holder and you cannot solder
or fix it in any way. The only solution is to scrap the thing
and obtain a new one (rare as rocking horse poo) or a second-hand
down the local Ford breakers was in order. They had six in
their bin, two of which were wired up differently underneath.
The remaining four were the same type as mine of which only
two was good. The other two had the same problems as mine
so I bought the two goods ones for a total of £10.00
home I plugged the new fuse box in and have no more problems
up to date.
second item I wanted to change was the contact breaker system
on my Ford Crossflow 1300 engine.
the Bucket & Spade run in June, the engine had started
to miss-fire and on investigation the points had closed up.
Time to upgrade to a electronic system.
through the magazines, they range in all prices and I remembered
an article in the LOCUST Mag on a Maplin product for about
£ 12.00. I did look at the product but felt I could go one
through my books on Ford parts and found that Ford went over
to electronic ignitions round about 1981 on the Escort. The
Mk4 1300 Escorts has got a nice Bosch electronic ignition,
not on a CVH engine, but on a Valencia engine which is very
similar to the Crossflow fitted to the Mk 1 & Mk2 Escorts,
Cortinas and Capris.
are the type with the amplifier mounted on the side of the
distributor body as in the Fiesta 1.4,Orion 1.3, 1.4, 1.6,
& 1.6i, XR3 & XR3i.
only problem which accurse with the amplifier module is contact
with the main body of the distributors. Take the two screws
out and clean both surfaces. coat then with special heat conducting
compound available from your Ford dealers and screw amplifier
is good, is the distributor from these will drop straight
in to the Crossflow engine with a few minor wiring alterations
and change of coil.
do you need a change of Coil?
you run a Crossflow engine using the original Ford wiring
loom, it will be ballasted at 9 volts, and this will not suit
the above distributors. A standard coil of 12 volts will do.
down to the Ford breakers. After searching around, I found
a nice distributor in a Fiesta 1.4, compete with coil and
more importantly the multi-plug lead and a decent set of HT
Leads, all for the sum of £ 20.00.
at the car and with the distributor all cleaned up I was ready
to install it.
came the rocker box cover and I turned the engine till no.
1 cylinder was on compression, both rocker arms have clearance
at top dead centre which is marked on the crankshaft pulley.
the old distributor and retained the old clamping plate as
the new one of the Fiesta was slightly different.
the rim of the new distributor you will find a line or notch.
You can see the notch or line in the picture at 8 oclock
position. This is the firing point of cylinder No. 1. That
the front one on the Crossflow and in case you have forgotten
the firing order for the Crossflow it is 1-2-4-3. The rotor
runs in anti-clockwise direction as you look at the top of
you drop the distributor in, put the rotor arm on and align
the rotor pointing at the line or notch.
the clamping plate on and feed the distributor in and watch
how much the rotor turns past the line or notch. Make a pencil
line on the rim where the rotor is now pointing. Now make
a pencil mark the same distance away on the opposite side
of the line or notch.
the distributor out again and turn the rotor to your second
the distributor back in and the rotor should stop turning
at the line or notch. You are now on No.1 cylinder firing
position and when you fit the cap, the rotor will be pointing
at the lead to No. 1 cylinder.
not use the lead from the loom as this is ballasted. Run a
new wire from the ignition switch down to the positive side
of the new coil (SW15) and join the black wire from the multi-plug
to the same. The green wire from the multi-plug then fits
on the negative side of the coil with a feed from this, to
your electric rev.counter if youve got one fitted. The
third wire is brown and goes to chassis earth.
ready to switch on. The distributor should be fairly accurately
timed up to start the engine and when running at tick over
( 850-900) a setting between 6 degrees before TDC and 11 degrees
before TDC should suit depending on your cam.
out on the road and make adjustments a degree or two at a
time to see how it behaves. If you get pinking on hard acceleration,
then back the distributor off a degree or two.
there you have it, a electronic ignition system for about
£ 20.00 for a fraction of the cost.
buy and new distributor car and rotor arm, but these are peanuts.
You may also find, depending on your manifold that the HT
Leads to your "top entry cap" foul the manifold
but you can buy side entry HT Leads to over come the problem.